Safe and Natural
As the number of people who are concerned
about toxins in our environment grows, more and more skin care companies are
jumping on the "natural" and "organic" bandwagon for cosmetics and also for
personal and body care products.
NATURAL and ORGANIC
But what does "natural" and "organic" mean when
we see them on a mainstream manufacturers cosmetic or toiletries product label? How do we
really know what we are buying
is really natural and organic? How do we actually know if the products are
safe and non-toxic? What are the natural alternatives to
synthetic and mostly toxic chemicals? Is natural and organic really any better for
us? What products are truly natural and organic?
Our skin is the largest eliminatory organ in
the body. It is a two-way membrane. Toxins are eliminated through the skin
via perspiration and absorbed through the skin into the body’s circulation
system, through hair follicles and sebaceous glands, but not through the
sweat glands. One square inch of skin contains approximately 65 hairs, 100
sebaceous glands and 650 sweat glands. Every square inch of you skin is like
a thousand open mouths, absorbing into the body most of what is put on it. Back to Top
Skin care manufacturers are not supposed to
claim that their products penetrate the skin. If they did, the products
would then be labelled as “drugs” and would be governed by much stricter
regulations. However, it is now recognised that the skin does absorb many
ingredients in skin care preparations. This is both good and bad. Good,
because it means our skin can be nourished from the outside with some
wonderful ingredients. Bad, because some skin care manufacturers can use
harmful ingredients that would never be allowed to be taken orally, but are
still absorbed into our system, through our skin.
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WHAT DOES “NATURAL” AND “ORGANIC” MEAN ON PRODUCT LABELS?
Nowhere does the idea of “natural” or “organic” take a
more gratuitous bruising than in the
skin/body care industry.
If we first take the word "natural" and look it up in the
Concise Oxford Dictionary we would find this description of natural thus;
“existing in, or caused by nature; not artificial; uncultivated; wild
existing in natural state; not disguised or altered”. It seems pretty
clear what "natural" actually means to me! Does it to you? However when
vested interests get hold of the word natural they put a whole new slant on
it. It may seem pretty clear to you and me exactly what we mean by natural
but for the marketing men they obviously haven't read the dictionary and
start bending the interpretation of natural to suit themselves.
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Many labels have long lists of chemical names, some
followed by the phrase “derived from …” (some natural substance). This is
grossly misleading for consumers who are looking for genuine natural
products.
When chemicals such as Cocamide DEA or Sodium
Hydroxysultaine are followed by the words “derived from coconut oil” the
consumer is led to believe that these synthetic chemicals must somehow be
"natural". While this may be true in some cases where a natural oil or
extract is actually used, it is ultimately irrelevant because what you end
up with after the chemical solvent extraction and processing is usually
anything but natural or pure. It is just another chemical concoction with
some rather awful sounding long names to describe the process the "natural"
product went through
Now what about "organic"?
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Again if we look in the dictionary for the word organic it
is pretty obvious to us what we expect to find as far as safe products in
general are concerned. Would you say in the context you are expecting to use
or find the term organic that this would be a fair description; "produced
and involving production without the use of pesticides, artificial
fertilizers or synthetic chemicals." To me it seems rather elementary
that when describing a product as organic that this is exactly what the
customer would expect. However to the marketing men this is not what they
mean by organic. Lets delve a little deeper into this play on words
To create Cocamide DEA, a foaming agent found in some
shampoos, requires the addition of a synthetic chemical and known
carcinogen, Diethanolamine – DEA, to the coconut oil. It is therefore no
longer natural, or safe! If we look at the term “organic” on a label, we
usually think it means “grown and cultivated without the use of chemicals”
as stated above. That is the conclusion most skin care companies would like
us to come to when they use the rather loose term organic.
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Unscrupulous companies are cynically using the chemistry
definition of “organic” – which is also defined in the dictionary as
"a compound that contains a carbon atom" to confuse consumers. This is known
in the trade as confusion advertising so the real picture becomes blurred.
Carbon is found in everything that has ever lived. Vested interests by using
this definition of organic, they are saying that a toxic petrochemical
preservative called Methyl Paraben is “organic” because it was formed from
leaves that rotted over thousands of years to become crude oil, which was
then used to make this preservative. How absurd is this when consumers are
looking for safe non-toxic products?
The play on the word organic gets even worse. An
increasing number of companies are now claiming to use “organic” herbs in
their products. But, what about the rest of the ingredients? Are they safe?
Are they "natural" or from an "organic" source? Surely there must be
an authority that governs the use of the term “organic” on labels?
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The simple answer is NO!
However, the term “certified organic” IS
governed by a number of internationally recognised bodies. In Australia the
Biological Farmers of Australia (BFA) is the largest. Searching for products
with the logo of a certifying body on the label is the only way you can
guarantee the organic authenticity and integrity of every ingredient in the
product. This can then truly be called a natural product. Without the
"Certified Organic" label, the organic claim means nothing,
as it cannot be verified and most likely it is a complete hoax perpetrated
by the marketing men and their hype. Back to Top
HOW DO WE KNOW WHAT WE ARE BUYING IS
REALLY...
“NATURAL”
AND “ORGANIC"?
Fortunately, there is a very simple way to differentiate
between the hype and truth in skin care and that is to read the ingredient
list on the label. It is a legal requirement that all skin care products
must be labelled with the ingredients in descending order of their quantity
in the product. A good rule of thumb is to divide the ingredient list into
thirds: the top third usually contains 90-95% of the product, the middle
third usually contains 5-8% and the bottom third, 1-3%.
Here is the ingredient list of a so-called “natural” and
“organic” body moisturiser from a well- known “natural” skin care company.
| |
APRICOT CREAM |
| |
Natural or
Organic ingredients include |
| 1 |
Water (deionised) |
| 2 |
Isopropyl Palmitate
(Palm Oil Derivative) |
| 3 |
Apricot Kernel Oil |
| 4 |
Bis-Digyceryl
Caprylate/Caprate/Isosterate/Stearate/ Hydroxysterate Adipate
(vegetable Triglyceride) |
| 5 |
Glyceryl Stearate SE
(vegetable derived) |
| 6 |
Caprylic/Capric
Triglyceride (glycerin-derived emollient) |
| 7 |
Ceteareth - 12
(Organic Emulsifier) |
| 8 |
Tocopherol Oil
(vitamin E) |
| 9 |
Chamomile Extract |
| 10 |
Sage Extract |
| 11 |
Linden Extract (Lime
Blossom Extract) |
| 12 |
Balm Mint Extract |
| 13 |
Shea Butter (From
Karite) |
| 14 |
Wheat Germ Oil |
| 15 |
Carrot Oil |
| 16 |
Cetyl Alcohol
(organic Co-emulsifier) |
| 17 |
Sodium Hydroxide (pH
Adjuster) |
| 18 |
Sorbic Acid (Organic
Compound) |
| 19 |
Tocopherol Acetate
(vitamin E Derivative) |
| 20 |
Methyl Paraben |
| 21 |
Propyl Paraben |
| 22 |
Imidazolidinyl Urea
(Organic Compound) |
| 23 |
Fragrance |
| 24 |
FD & C Yellow No 5,
D7C Red No. 33. |
| |
Content: Apricot
oil (2.5%) Back to Top |
Take note of the last point that says
"Content: Apricot Oil (2.5%). Notice Apricot Oil is No 3 on the list.
Because skin care and cosmetic manufacturers are required to list the
ingredients in descending order this means everything AFTER Apricot Oil
makes up less than 2.5% of the volume.
This effectively means that about 90% of the
product is water and Isopropyl Palmitate. Isopropyl Palmitate is derived
from Isopropyl Alcohol, synthetic alcohol and Palmatic Acid, a fatty acid
from palm oil. It is known to cause skin irritations and dermatitis and has
been shown to have comedogenic (acne promoting) properties!
Nos 5 and 5 are all produced by chemical
reactions between various fatty acids and glycerol (synthetic glycerine).
They are largely synthetic and have been shown to cause allergies and
dermatitis!
No 7 is a synthetic emulsifier that may
contain dangerous levels of ethylene oxide and dioxane - both are known
carcinogens.
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Nos. 8 to 15 are natural ingredients used in
tiny amounts merely to make the product look good. They may have been grown
using toxic organo-phosphates, other pesticides and chemical herbicides.
No. 16 May be natural or synthetic and has
been shown to cause contact dermatitis and eczema.
No. 17 Is otherwise known as caustic soda or
lye - a powerful drain cleaner extremely alkaline and corrosive. A known
sensitizer for many allergic people.
No. 18 Sorbic acid was once isolated from the
Mountain Ash berry, but is now chemically synthesised and is a toxic
preservative
No. 19 is synthetic Vitamin E.
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Nos. 20-22 are toxic and allergenic
preservatives which have been linked to increasing oestrogen levels in women
and is implicated in the rising incidence of breast cancer
No. 23. Probably synthetic, may contain
phthalates that have been linked to birth defects.
No. 24. Synthetic colours that could be
potentially carcinogenic.
Now let’s look at an ingredient list of a
certified organic body moisturiser.
This ingredient list says
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| |
CERTIFIED ORGANIC BODY INTENSIVE |
| 1 |
Proprietary blend of
organic native Australian distilled herbal extracts, |
| 2 |
Organic Safflower oil |
| 3 |
Purified Water |
| 4 |
Organic Avocado oil |
| 5 |
Organic Cocoa butter |
| 6 |
Non-GMO Lecithin |
| 7 |
Organic Sugar-Cane
Ethanol |
| 8 |
Organic Unrefined
Beeswax |
| 9 |
Lime |
| 10 |
D-Panthenol (pro-vit
b5) |
| 11 |
Olive extract |
| 12 |
Grapefruit extract |
| 13 |
Sclerotium gum |
| 14 |
Organic orange |
| 15 |
Vanilla extract |
- Is a proprietary blend of organic native
Australian distilled herbal extracts
- Is cold-pressed from organic safflower seeds.
- Purified Water.
- Is cold-pressed from organic avocado fruit.
- Is from organic cocoa beans.
- Is from non-genetically modified soybean oil.
- Is from organic sugar.
- Is from organic beehives!
- Is cold pressed from the skin of organic limes.
- Is a precursor to vitamin B5.
- Is from olive leaves.
- Is from grapefruit seeds.
- Is a natural gum.
- Is cold-pressed from organic orange peel.
- Is from natural vanilla beans.
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WHAT ARE THE NATURAL ALTERNATIVES
TO CHEMICALS?
All skin care products, both synthetic and natural,
contain items from the following categories in
some combination or other:
EMOLLIENTS
Emollients serve two functions; they prevent dryness and
protect the skin, acting as a barrier and healing agent. Water is the best
emollient, but because it evaporates quickly it is ineffective. It
needs to be held on the skin by emollient oils in what is called an
emulsion. Synthetic emollients are occlusive i.e. they coat the skin and do
not allow it to respire (much like plastic wrap), which can cause skin
irritation. Some synthetic emollients can accumulate in the liver and lymph
nodes. They are also non-biodegradable, causing a negative environmental
impact.
Natural emollients actually nourish the skin. They are
metabolised by the skin’s own enzymes and absorbed into it. They are readily
biodegradable and are of edible quality. Back to Top
Some Synthetic Emollients:
PEG compounds (eg PEG- 45 Almond Glyceride) may contain
the toxic by-product dioxane Synthetic alcohols (anything that contains the
phrase benzyl –, butyl-, cetearyl-, cetyl -, glyceryl-, isopropyl-, myristyl
propyl-, propylene-, or stearyl-) eg Isopropyl Palmitate, Diglyceryl
Caprylate) have been shown to cause allergies and dermatitis. Hydrocarbons (eg
mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffin) contain carcinogenic and mutagenic
Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs) and can cause chemically induced
acne. Silicone Oils (eg dimethicone, cyclomethicone, copolyol) can clog the
skin like plastic wrap and cause tumours when painted on lab animals
(according to the Material Safety Data Sheet supplied by the manufacturer).
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Some Natural Emollients
Plant Oils (eg. Jojoba, Avocado, Rosehip) Shea, Cocoa and Jojoba
Butters
The main purpose of any cream is to keep the skin moist.
Many conventional creams form a suffocating film on the skin to prevent
moisture loss. Even a natural humectant, glycerin, actually
attracts water from the air and surrounding tissue. It keeps the skin moist
as long as there is sufficient moisture in the air. In a dry climate it
actually draws moisture from the skin. Collagen, elastin and keratin enjoy
some popularity as humectants. Whilst they are compatible with the skin and
deposit a protective film, they are usually sourced from animals and
therefore cannot be termed “cruelty free”. Some skin care companies would
like you to believe that your skin can use special animal proteins to
rejuvenate and replace aging cells. This is nonsense! The size of the
molecules, even when broken down (hydrolysed), are far too large to
penetrate the skin. Even if they could get in, they would be immediately
rejected as foreign matter and attacked by the immune system.
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Natural phospholipids, from lecithin, are fantastic
humectants. An important benefit of phospholipids is that they are
hygroscopic (attract water from the surrounding air) and hold water where an
increased level of hydration is needed. Therefore, phospholipids increase
the hydration
levels of the skin without being occlusive (forming a film to prevent water
loss, and preventing normal cellular function). A recent study proved the
value of topically applied phospholipids in skin care. It found that
environmental factors (sun, wind, pollution) and the detergents and
solvents, found in most skin cleansers, actually stripped the natural
phospholipid content from the top layer of skin. This loss resulted in a
rough feel and a pitted appearance under a microscope. Importantly, the
phospholipids in the uppermost skin layers cannot be replaced by natural
cell function, as the top layer of cells no longer metabolise; they serve
only as a protective barrier.
Remarkably, the study showed that topically applied plant
phospholipids restore the barrier function of the skin, protecting it from
substances such as bacteria and harmful chemicals.
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Some Synthetic Humectants
- Propylene Glycol – causes irritation and contact
dermatitis
- Ethylene/Diethylene Glycol – causes irritation
and contact dermatitis
- PEG compounds (eg Polyethylene Glycol) –
may contain the toxic by-product dioxane
Some natural Humectants
- Lecithin
- Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5)
- Glycerin
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EMULSIFIERS
Emulsifiers hold two ingredients
together that normally don't mix. This can be either a physical substance
(like a wax) or a physical action (shake well before use). Synthetic
emulsifiers are usually petroleum/hydrocarbon derivatives and can be
allergens. Natural emulsifiers are obtained from various nuts, berries and
leaves.
Some Synthetic Emulsifiers
- Alkoxylated Amides (eg TEA, DEA, MEA
MIPA compounds) can undergo nitrosation to form nitrosamines which are
known carcinogens.
- PEG compounds - may contain the
toxic substance dioxane
- Sorbitan Sterate, Laurate,
Palmitate, Oleate etc.
- Ozokerite, Ceresin, Silicone and
Montan Waxes
- Isopropyl Stearate, Laurate,
Palmitate, Oleate etc.
Some Natural Emulsifiers Back to Top
- Plant waxes (eg Candelilla, Carnuba,
Jojoba, Rice Bran)
- Xanthum Gum
- Quince Seed
SURFACTANTS
Surface-active-agents
are substances capable of dissolving oils and holding dirt in suspension so
it can be rinsed away with water. They are used in skin cleansers and
shampoos.
A serious problem with ethoxylated surfactants (those that
utilise ethylene or propylene oxide in the chemical reaction) is that they
often contaminated with dioxane, a potent carcinogen. The exact same toxic
carcinogen sprayed on the Vietnam jungle during
Agent Orange which
caused hundreds of thousands of birth defects and cancers in Vietnamese
civilians and huge increases in the cancer rates for US and Australian army
personnel.
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These surfactants are listed on labels as ingredients
ending with -eth, (like laureth) or containing the phrase PEG (Poly
Ethylene Glycol),
or PPG (Poly Propylene
Glycol). Another dangerous class of surfactants
are amides. These are listed on labels containing the term TEA -
TriEthanolAmine,
DEA - DiEthanolAmine
and MEA MonoEthanolAmine.
All compounds containing TEA, DEA, and MEA can undergo nitrosation with
other chemicals to form nitrosamines, which are carcinogenic. One study
found that over 40% f products containing triethanolamine (TEA) were
contaminated with these potent carcinogens.
Natural saponins (foaming agents) are a much better choice
for shampoos. They gently cleanse the hair and scalp without stripping the
natural oils.
Some Synthetic Surfactants
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- Sodium or Ammonium Lauryl or Laureth Sulphate
- Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
- Sodium Lauroyl or Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Cocomidopropyl Betaine
- TEA compounds
- DEA compounds
- PEG (Polyethylene Glycol) compounds
- Quarternium -7,15,31,60 etc
- Lauryl or Cocoyl Sarcosine
- Disodium Oleamide or Dioctyl Sulfosuccinate
- etc. etc. etc.
Some Natural Surfactants
- Castile Soap
- Yucca Extract
- Soapwort
- Quillaja Bark Extract
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PRESERVATIVES
The decaying process is natural and happens with or
without preservatives. Skin care products do
not (and should not) last for ever. Just like food, all natural skin care
products will eventually deteriorate and go rancid. The effectiveness, not
safety, of synthetic chemical preservatives has
only been “proven” by animal testing. Chemical preservatives are generally
used because they are
much cheaper than, and extend the shelf life of the product more than
natural alternatives. Storing natural products in the fridge will help
extend their life.
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Some Synthetic Preservatives
- Imidiazolidinyl Urea (Germall 115) and Diazolidinyl
Urea (Germall II) Causes contact
dermatitis. Germall 115 releases
formaldehyde over 10°C.
- DMDM Hydantoin Highly toxic, causes contact dermatitis,
contains formaldehyde. Used in
shampoos and deodorants.
- Methyl, Propyl, Butyl and Ethyl Paraben Toxic, Causes
allergic reactions and skin rashes. Used in a huge range of products and
is implicated in increasing breast cancer rates when used as a
preservative in underarm deodorants.
- 2-Bromo-2-Nitro-Propane-1, 3-diol. (Bronopol). Toxic -
causes allergic contact dermatitis. Used in face creams, shampoos,
mascaras and bath oils.
- Benzalkonium Chloride - Highly toxic, primary skin
irritant. Used in shampoos, conditioner and deodorants.
- Quarternium-15 Toxic, causes skin rashes and allergic
reactions
- Chloromethylisothiazolinone and Isothiazolinone - Cause
contact dermatitis
- Methylisothiazolinone and Methylchloroisothiazolinone-
Both cause allergies
- Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT) and Butylated
Hydroxyanisole (BHA) - Both cause allergic contact dermatitis - worse BHT
is carcinogenic!
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This alphabet soup of synthetic chemicals which go into
making the average personal care product and/or cosmetic is believed to be
playing a major part in the enormous increase in cancer rates in the
developed countries of the world. Research scientists such as
Dr Samuel Epstein have been speaking out
strongly for decades trying to warn the public of the dangers of toxic
chemicals in personal care products. We are losing the "winnable war on
cancer" due to vested interests totally ignoring the damage that low level
exposure to toxins over may years do to our immune systems.
Some Natural Preservatives
- Tea Tree essential oil
- Thyme essential oil
- Grapefruit Seed Extract
- D-Alpha Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E)
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IS "NATURAL" REALLY BETTER?
Well you make your own mind up! There are some people who
really do think that there are "safe" synthetic chemicals which can be
applied to the skin and eaten in food without doing any harm. However didn't
the cigarette manufacturers maintain for over thirty years that the
chemicals in smoke never caused cancer too? It is easy to bury your head in
the sand and ignore these dangers as we listen to the hollow platitudes of
vested interests who are making billions from a gullible public.
If we look at chemicals from a historic point of view we
see a pattern of wonderful chemical and drug breakthroughs which are going
to change life for the better. They are sold to us on a platform of hype and
false promises as the answer to all sorts of problems. Subsequent disastrous
side effects and countless deaths have been caused by some of these new
wonder chemicals and drugs before they were pulled off the market and banned
long after the damage had already been done.
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Remember the miracle of DDT? How this was going to
revolutionise farming in the world and destroy all insect pests. Now every
single living creature on earth today, humans included, carry a burden of
DDT stored in their fat cells with who knows what consequences for
generations to come. What about thalidomide? Remember the miracle drug to
ease women through the "sickness" of bearing a child. How many tens of
thousands of children were born with defects from this incredible chemical
folly? How would you feel if by your uninformed use of toxic chemicals caused
ongoing medical problems for your loved ones in the future?
The search for newer, better and safer synthetic chemicals
goes on and on with new chemicals being released at a staggering rate onto
the market and the unsuspecting public. When you really think about it, the
entire process is so futile and foolish and is only being pursued in the
name of corporate profit. Mother Nature has always had the answers for us
yet man seems hell-bent on ignoring the most basic rule of all and that is
to live in harmony with nature not try to control it. Ultimately nature
reduces us back to the earth. For many of us, sadly well before our time is
due, we will be struck down by deadly cancer. The rate is already 1 in 3 in
the US and is running very close behind in the UK and other developed
countries.
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We should all avoid toxic synthetic chemicals from all
sources. We can do this largely by sourcing organic produce as much as we
possibly can and using only certified organic personal care products and
cosmetics. You may be amazed at the huge difference these simple measures
will make to your health.
Informed people make informed choices
YOUR Health...
YOUR
Decision
www.Health-report.co.uk comment:
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This extremely well written article by Narelle Chenery the founding
director of a new and exciting project in Australia to produce Certified Organic
100% synthetic chemical free non-toxic personal care products and cosmetics sheds a lot
of light on the risks we are all exposed to on a daily basis without even
thinking about it. Toxic chemicals are invading our lives from every direction
and as Narelle points out... Are any of them actually safe?
We heartily commend Narelle and her co-directors for producing such a
wonderful range of completely natural products. It is really heartening to
see there are people who are prepared to do what it takes to deliver what
must be one of the most advanced Certified Organic product ranges in the world.
The products are available in Australia and New Zealand now and will
be available in the USA and Canada from the end of January 2004. For more information
contact us for details of
suppliers. We should be able to put you onto an outlet in either country.
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Just to reinforce what Narelle has written about manufacturers of
so-called "natural" and "organic" products read
this report just in from Washington